Baking with Whole Grains by Mani Niall

Early July, Seattle Washington -
I was lucky enough to spend a long weekend with several accomplished cooks that have penned a few cookbooks between them (Great Desserts of the Great Chefs, Hollywood Dish).  Once we hit the farmers market in the University district and the famed Pikes Place market, we were armed and loaded---with the best bounty of summer fruits imaginable!  Peaches, nectarines, sour cherries, black raspberries, apricots, blackberries, strawberries ... the list goes on.  I tried to keep up with this team of bakers, jot down notes, take photos and generally gather enough information to make written recipes.  This month's column is a workable guide, culled from that baking and eating frenzy, to help summer bakers everywhere capture the taste of good, ripe fruit.

My goal was to perfect a whole grain and gluten free crisp.  Nectarines and black raspberries, or just plain blackberries, was my fruit combination of choice for that venture.  When I found a grain miller from Washington selling their flour at the farmers market, I made it a goal to see if I could find all the other ingredients for a peach dessert at a single market.  With a beekeeper selling local honey, some dairy folks with eggs, butter and milk as well, I succeeded!  That turned into the peach upside down cake.

Sour cherry pie was the ultimate goal of one baker; corn starch turned out to be the secret that kept her pie from getting runny.  Another cook focused on pie crusts and the art of the lattice crust.  I am in awe of their patience in weaving those tender strands of pastry into a work of art rivaling the beauty of a Persian rug!

Peach Upside Down Cake - I can't stress enough how tasty this is when baked in a cast iron skillet.  Cake pans are fine, but – the butter and honey and fruit just caramelize so …rich and tasty in cast iron!  Use one if you can.  And feel free to substitute other fruit if you like, just cover the bottom of the pan generously as the fruit shrinks while baking due to moisture loss.

 Nectarine Blackberry Crisp - Crisps are about the easiest of all the summer deep-dish fruit desserts, no rolling or kneading or mixers required, it’s all done by hand.  They are possibly the most forgiving as well.  That’s why I chose this approach for a gluten free option and everyone loved it.  After a hearty summer meal, even those not gluten intolerant welcomed a gluten – free, whole grain dessert, especially when it’s served ala mode.

Cherry Pie - Pie crusts can be daunting, but really it comes down to technique – that’s what the home baker needs.  I have been lucky enough to learn from the pro’s;  I use a hint of baking powder to help the butter leaven the dough, and a dash of vinegar to minimize gluten development, especially in whole grain crusts.